Adventures in Switzerland
We left France and started to make our way into Switzerland. We immediately noticed a change in the topography and also in the kind of trees which we found in the forest. They are not short of trees here, the wild flowers so far were the same as in France let’s see what we will have ahead.
Soon after turning to the left in our track we found some historical information in a board and there it indicated that we were already at Ballaigues what a relief, “we are not lost after all we thought”. The waymarking was rather poor in here and we were a bit worried that we could have taken the wrong turn.
Photo: Richard at Ballaigues
Our destination was Dizy and we were supposed to stay in an albergue exclusive for Pilgrims and we were advised by the Pilgrims guide that these people were providing a great service to the traveller. Unfortunately to reach this place we needed to walk 23 km of very rough track in some areas . Luckily for us the beauty of the area helped to make things easier. The little villages were attractive and immersed in the middle of the woods and did not have facilities. Some of them were seen by us from the track but we did not visit them as our path did not pas through them.
Photo: villague in Le Clèe
Non Once we emerged from the woods we reached the first village that offered a fantastic view from the edge of a cliff, this was just before going under a bridge to turn South. From the edge of the cliff we were able to see the incredible Swiss mountainous panorama. In the middle of a soft mist we could see for a long distance soft green hills and the towering mountains in the background, some of them still covered with snow. Among the hills we were able to distinguish the many roads going in all directions. Difficult to describe but incredibly beautiful.
Photo: Walking to Switzerland
We were not advancing very fast as we stopped too often to admire the beauty offered to us and to take photos. For long distances we walked immersed in our own reflections, perhaps we were afraid to break the magic with words or comments which may be trivial.
Later in the day before reaching Romainmotier-Envy we entered a very rough area, very difficult and dangerous, this appeared with no warning. A very narrow uphill path rocky slippery and wet, there was an unexpected water way to cross and the whole waymarking had disappeared. To manage this track was a real challenge. We were looking for a wooden gate that was the waymark and we could not find it. Finally when we went across the sharp edged rocks a downhill short bit of track took us to the elusive wooden gate and we crossed it only to find a more challenging task. A very steep and narrow uphill path, was in front of us, we could hardly fit with our back packs this was horror. We climbed this track for at least 700 metres before getting to a wide path that took us through very soothing woods with sunshine filtering through the trees. The worst part of the narrow track was to know that behind the shrubs in the left side was just the edge of the cliff.
It is necessary to mention that since we left Besançon we were following the Light Foot guide book and the routes that are showed here are much more interesting and beautiful however the marking sometimes is not the best. The route showed by this book does not take us to Orbe where all other routes take you to we go to Romainmô-Envy which is the cutest town in the Swiss walk.
Romainmôtier-Envy is in the Canton of Voud and is located at Jura-Nord Vaudoes, lies on the Nozon river and dates to the 10th century or earlier. There are 500 inhabitants in the village. The majority are French nationals (15%) , Germans and other non Swiss people live here. The language spoken is mainly French and around 55% are catholic.
This village is nested in the middle of trees and beautiful gardens and exhibit the most beautiful Cluniac-Romanesque church, originally built in the 10th century and restored several times through the times. The church has some magnificent frescos and gothic columns that date it. Also there is another beautiful representation of the Romanesque Gothic art and that is the Monastery which also dates to the 10th century. The clock tower is a unicorn representation of art at its best.
We walked through the village and every turn we found that here lives a very well organised community which lives well and they are an affluent group of people. By the time that we left this beautiful place after have a lovely afternoon tea at the Convent’s gardens it was past mid afternoon and we needed to speed up if we wanted to get to Dizy on time.
Photo: Crossing towards Dizy Switzerland
The route still continued going through woods and fields of wheat and forage. The presence of more cows gave us the impression that we were entering a rich dairy area. Finally we left the woods behind and began to cross fields with crops which obviously are well look after. There was a lot of activity in the fields and huge machinery replaced the manual work. We needed to reach and cross a farm before getting to our destination but it seemed that we would never reach that point . We were staring to run out of blood sugar and were tired.
We got to the farm but they had so many barking dogs that to cross it was scary but after 400 metres or so we pass the main house stables and garages where tractors and other machines went for maintenance.
Two kilometres later we arrived in Dizy what a dump! we could not find the place the numbere on the street did not follow a common pattern. After looking up and down the street for some time we called the contact by 4th or 5th time and we got to the albergue that was a bit of a let down. The owner of the joint was not there and his daughter and son in law were running it. The next morning at breakfast Mr Francoise Philipe Devenoge was there to join us for coffee. Very interesting fellow an entrepreneur obviously involved in the town affairs and a first class host.
Francois Philipe saw us to the front door when we left and followed us in his car to make sure that we took the right turn at the end of his town.
2/6 On our way to Lausanne
Again we were to walk through forests and fields no towns of major importance were expected until we could reach Lausanne we needed to cover approximately 25 kilometres before reaching the town.
The summer is becoming obvious today us the temperature has risen quite suddenly. Yesterday the temperature was very agreeable but this morning was already warm before leaving the albergue.
Crossed several lots of forest and plantations of sugarbeet during the early part of the morning and after a few kilometres we entered a very nice village. We stopped by the chemist and continued the route not before having a lovely cup of coffee.
We continued this time on minor roads parallel to the main thoroughfare. The tracks for Pilgrims in this area are well looked after and that made things easy as the major roads do have too many trucks and too much traffic so they are dangerous.
We walked as fast as possible as the heat was beginning to interfere with our system. We wanted to be out of the road as soon as possible. We stopped in Cassanay had a sandwich and lots of water before continuing on our way.
Five km after this stop we decided that we had enough in that heat and caught a train to Lausanne for about 8 kilometres we arrived to the hostel where we were booked for two nights. The heat continue to increase and by the evening we had 28 degrees in town. That night was warm and sticky.
Photo: City of Lausanne
Lausanne was built on the top of Mount Lausanne, the highest part is 900 metres above sea level and the centre of town is at 495 metres above sea level. Everywhere you go is an uphill or downhill route that you have to take. This city is very attractive and sits by the Lake Geneva which is at 370 mt above sea level. Switzerland is a wealthy country and it shows in the infrastructure of its cities. The original town Lossanna was a Roman settlement near the lake and is dated to the year 15 BC. There are indications that the origins can be tied up with the Mesolithic era.
Today this city has a Protestant Cathedral dated to the 12th century it has 105 stained glass windows . Also has Catholic Churches museums and beautiful buildings. Unfortunately for us we could not do too much as the temperature by midday was around 35 degrees in the shade.
Photo: Protestan Cathedral of Lousanne
We stayed at the Youth Hostel and shared a room with Felicity a young teacher very dedicated to her pupils. She was German and just moved to Lausanne one week ago to take a job at a very prestigious school. She was thrilled to bits with her achievement.
We met some lovely people at this hostel but no Pilgrims, I talked to an Argentinian girl that had a scholarship to the Lausanne conservatory for three years and she was very happy with her Swiss experience , however she misses her family a lot.
4/6 going to Vevey 18km
Leaving the Hostel was fast and easy and by 07:30 AM we were on our way feeling enthusiastic about the prospect of the next two o three days. We believe that we will see amazing things as most of the walking will be by Lake Geneva.
The way out of Lausanne was well marked and before long we were in Ouchy which is situated at the bottom of the city by the lake. The day was a lovely sunny one. The temperature was quite agreeable and most of the walk was downhill or flat. Then we reached Pully which is the wharf where people can catch the ferry to Villenueve around 45km from Lausanne.
Photo: Pully Wharf
In Pully were many boats and catamarans in the distance. The wharf was still empty and it was so peaceful. We went passing many little villages Lutry, Villete, Cully, Rivas and San-Saphorin every one of them were beautifully kept and their gardens look amazing.
Photo: Some vineyards by the lake
By mid afternoon the path by the lakes edge ended and we had to climb up to the road. That was good to start with as we could see the terraces of vineyards. Two or three kilometres after we were starting to feel the heat and for an unknown reason had a feeling of suffocation . Soon after we discovered the reason for the discomfort. There was Road Work in progress and the workers were pouring hot Tar over the road. Because the evaporation of chemicals gave that odour and also the heat of the Tar contributed to further heating the already hot air. After a while we could not bear the heat our clothes were saturated and we were risking dehydration. Just one station before Vevey we caught the train and this was a good move. But in life even bad things have a positive and this time by going to the road we were able to see the vineyards and understand that they are a miracle.
$$Once at Vervy station we walked to the city to see the telecommunications gurus yet another waste of our time. After that finding the highly recommended Pilgrim albergue presented its challenges. the place was far from the station and we slowly made our way there. The accommodation was very poor the bathroom was dirty and of course was shared facility that is always a bit of a difficult situation. The man absolutely misrepresented his stablishment in the book. He was just a con artist and we had the worst experience staying there. He overchanged us big time and we finished up paying more than what you paid at a small hotel. The breakfast next morning was worse than expected and the facilities were not dedicated to Pilgrims as he claimed. It was just a run down joint where you risk getting bed bugs and the lot.
As soon as we had the coffee we were at the door and by 7:30 were starting the journey of approximately 18 km and then we had the opportunity of seeing the Vevey that tourists rave about.
&&We walked through the village of Vevey using the lake route it was absolutely beautiful the lake was blue the sky clear of any clouds and by ten o’clock the temperature was still in the low twenties . We arrived at a park where several retirees (males) were installing a miniature train track and a train with a steam engine. It was fantastic to see them working and enjoying the experience. Later we stopped for coffee and by 1:00 PM we had lunch sitting in the park. We saw some swans on the lake but not many as in this part of the year they go to have the new babies.
Photo: Geneva Lake and the elusive swans
Vevy is dotted with historical buildings and museums that show their past and tell their rich heritage. The lake road shows very interesting sculptures, one famous one is a statue of Charles Chaplin. He came to live in exile to Vevy the victim of McCarthyism and died here and his grave is at the cemetery. Fedor Dostoyesky and other writers honoured Vevey by living here for long while. Among them was Ernest Heminway and Victor Hugo. Mahatma Ghandi also lived here at some stage.
Indeed in 1875 it was here that a Swiss citizen Daniel Peter invented milk chocolate. Later the Nestlé factory was built here.
Other beautiful sculptures by the lake there are those of stylised mermaids and sea horses. That from the distance give the impression that they are dancing.
Photo: Water horse sculpture
Of course the most notorious one is the sculpture of a huge Fork which stands touching the water of Geneva Lake. This sculpture is from modern times and is known as Fork Alimentarium. It was created by a Swiss artist Jean-Pierre Zaugg from Neuchatel. After a lot of controversy it became a permanent feature at the lake in 2008. The fork is 8 metres tall and 1.3 metres wide. Nestlé the chocolate manufacturer which is a Swiss company was instrumental on introducing this piece of art. The fork is something else!
We could not resist the photo opportunity to give an idea of the size of this land mark . Richard volunteered and there he is looking like any other tourist.
Photo: Richard and Alimentary Fork sculpture artist Jean Pierre Zaugg
Since 1867 Nestle has its headquarters in Vevey. In the 1900s Nestlé built a museum the alimentation with show rooms to display their history and provide services to their consumers. In around 2000 or so the Artist Jean Pierre Zaugg presented the Fork Alimentarium at the Nestle museum exhibition and his work become a success.
The Lake Road was very easy and a great part of it was by the water until the coast topography changed and we needed to abandon it and continue the walk on the busy road. By moving into the higher area we walked the Coates de Laveaux area at that point we had a “peep” into one of the most prosperous industries of Vevy, wine making .
Photo: Statues by the Geneva Lake at Vevey
The area Cotes de Laveaux best known as the Laveaux Terraces exhibit thousands of grape vines that have been planted in terraces. These terraces stretch for about 30 km along the southwest facing the northern shores of lake Geneva. This is one of the jewels in Vevey’s crown. The area of Laveaux is one of the biggest wine making regions in Switzerland. This area makes some of the best European wines.
The wine making commenced with the Romans in the early period of their occupation of Lausanne. From the 11th and 12th century the industry was nursed by the the Cistercian monks who revived the cultivation of grapes and wine making in the region of Vaud. It is known that the Cistercian monks came from Burgandy (France). Also the Benedictines had contributed to the re-stablishment of the current industry. Today they cultivate fine grapes for red and white wines and also some sweet varieties. The Vevey wines can compete in Europe and the world.
So from Vevy we continued our walk as far as Montreux famous for its Casino and decadent life style, (plenty photos for our gallery) . We got to the wharf and waited for the ferry to cross the lake to Villeneuve as it was already too hot to continue walking with our heavy backpacks. Many thanks to the early Pilgrims that 1000 years ago had the good judgement to do this very same thing.
On the way to Montreux we crossed Terriet, and Chateau du Chillon a magnificent piece of architecture. Also we noticed that passing through this areas after the chateau we could admire many sculptures representing great musicians and authors. Montreux is also recognised for being a Patron of musical talent.
We need to point out that in this area we could not even buy water as the prices were prohibitive a 250 ml bottle of water was €5.3 let alone the coffee. The lady at the ticket office for the ferry indicated that on arrival at Villeneuve we could get food at the supermarket that was across from the wharf.
The trip across the lake was very beautiful and the water was very calm. No waves or rocking of the ferry. We arrived at Villeneuve, went across to the Tourist Office and got information and advice. The young lady Chantal spoke several languages and was so friendly. Chantal advised that it was better to use the bus and train to do the next 25km to Saint Maurice as there was no shade all the way, walking the highway which could be dangerous in the peakhour.
We discussed the matter and decided that after going to the supermarket we would catch a bus to Aigle and from there a local train to Saint Maurice. This was 20 km that we decided not to walk.
We arrived at Saint Maurice of Agaunes by 14:00 hrs. At the station we sat for a coffee and water and decided that we needed to change some of the walking strategies before too long. We walked to the Abbey of Saint Maurice of Agaunes where we were to stay for the night. It was clean simple and very confortable. We shared facilities but there were plenty of showers and toilets and no one felt under pressure to hurry up. Once more we met the German guys that we met in Champlitte and had a chat with them.
Saint Maurice is a marvellous Village that has one of the oldest churches in the world. The first church was built in the 4th century by Theodulus the Bishop of Octoduros In memory of Saint Maurice and his companions. Saint Maurice of Augumes was a Roman Comander that refused to kill Christians. He and his soldiers were massacred in the year 300 AD by the Romans.
Photo: Saint Maurice of Agaunes
The Abbey of Saint Maurice of Agaunes was enlarged in the year 515 AD. In the year 2015 this church celebrated 1500 years . The church has the most beautiful stained-glass windows by the artist Edmond Bille, representing the martyrdom .
The church has the most exquisite paintings and representation in their walls and also a few frescos dating back a few centuries.
Well we had breakfast at the Abby with the Germans and the two young chaps that we met the previous evening. The priest assigned to the Pilgrims arranged accomodation for all of us at Orbe so we went happily on our way that we figured could be very difficult.
The next stop was to be at Martigny and we were really expecting a beautiful day where we could have a peaceful journey that would allow us to reflect on many of our learnings from our stay at Saint Maurice.
The way was more beautiful than expected and we crossed several villages with really good tracks, Most of them were with some shade. The morning went quickly and we stopped for coffee and an early lunch in a very small village that had a cute church and several small businesses.
We had a sandwich and coffee at Envionnaz and met a couple that talked to us for some time . They had just got engaged and wanted the world to know. That was nice.
We continued through some beautiful forest near Balmaz. We were warned that we had to cross an old bridge and we should be very careful as it was dangerous. Our apprehension evaporated when we found that the old bridge crossing the river had been replaced by a very modern one and there we met a young Italian couple with two beautiful children going for a day walk through the bush. They stopped and talked about their children and their holiday. They also showed great interest on our adventures as Pilgrims. After saying goodbye we continued the road and we reached a tiny cute park with seats and a water fountain to refill the Pilgrim’s bottles. There was another Pilgrim that was originally from Holland very well spoken and interesting we exchanged some ideas about the road and then we went on our way.
By the afternoon the route was getting nicer by the minute but we ended up in a place that had no way out luckily Richard was able to locate the proper track very soon and then we commenced to go up hill through the most beautiful woods. After several kilometres we passed a hydroelectric plant so big and impressive that it was hard to believe that it was there in the middle of the bush. Soon after we distinguished in the distance the industrial area of Martigny and then we reached the entrance to the town.
Nice place very tidy and organised we walked all the way to the Catholic Cathedral and approached the Parrish house where the reservations for the night were made. The accomodation was quite suitable in the attic of a house that a good Christian has prepared for Pilgrims.
We visited the church and had a drink at the Parrish with the Germans and the two young walkers before we were assigned to our beds.
That night we had something quick to eat at a Thai restaurant and got ready for the next day.
As planned from the beginning of the trip we were to skip the stage between Martigny and Osiere because we were warned that this section of the route was very dangerous as it has no barriers in an area that the track is narrow and along the edge of a cliff. We decided that it is silly to take unnecessary risks.
So we reached Osieres and stayed in a small Parrish where the priest was very unhelpful and the facilities were quite poor. We slept on the floor. Seven individuals needed to be accommodated on the floor on thin mattresses. Next morning we left in the direction to Borg Saint Pierre and walked mainly along the main road until Liddes and then to the back road. On arrival at the albergue the rain started to pelt down and the skies were breaking out. The noise between the mountains was so loud and powerful that it makes you feel like a little ant. The Germans and the younger kid were there already and had escaped the rain.
8/6 Borg of Saint Pierre
Photo: Borg de Saint Pierre
Early morning when still at Osiers we walked to the coffee shop by the station as we wanted to do some more findings about the Col de Saint Bernard. We stopped in a little café and the lady gave us hot croissants with a very hot coffee that by the way was really delicious. At that time we discussed what was going to be the best way out and we came to the conclusion that the best way was to follow the official Via Francigena as we assumed it would be safer. So we left direction Tourist Office got the required information and we went on the road again. After the plaza we took the main road. We descended a very steep marrow grassy path that took us to the official route. The way here was all uphill and in a serious way. A kilometre later we realise the the track was taking us in a big digression from the direction Saint Pierre, so we decided to take the Hughes common sense approach and we went straight ahead. Later the Via joined us again from the right. We continued passing some little houses here and there. The mountains were majestic they seemed bigger as we went. We reached a little village where there was a fork in the road and we needed to decide if we took one or the other side and as usual RH got the direction SW his sense of orientation is incredible. May be he will be a bird in his next life. Yes we found the required track that was beautifully shady and it took us to fields of wild flowers incredible. As we reached point where we should go up hill as per guide the only thing that was there was a mini-lock we overflowing water. We turned back and finally we decided that to save some time we needed to retrace our steps. Well we were wondering what went wrong. Back along the track that we first entered and just before getting to the field of flowers for first time on the left side among the shrubs we found the Via Francigena sign that we could not see before when walking on the opposite direction. The sign indicated that we needed to take a path that branched away from the wide track. So we descended this steep path and finally we again could look for the way to Saint Pierre.
The new path did not look very easy either so we decided to do our own way ignoring all experts so we climbed the ridge and got to the National Road. Tired and thirsty we got to what we thought was any garage or petrol station from the distance but behold it was a chicken and chips type of place. We sat and had something to eat including a small box of strawberries which were advertised as “directly from the farm” picked that morning. Oh what a treat! They were the most beautiful strawberries that we have ever eaten. As we finished the lunch the sky turned grey and the wind picked up, soon some drops of rain started to fall. This stopped and we continued our route direction Liddes.
We had a good walk and made really good time to Liddes and got there in time to get a cover for the next lot of rain. The last three days or so there have been storms every evening we guessed that it would be no different today .
The road continued to be uphill most of the time we have to reach 440 metres above sea level by Borg of Saint Pierre. The thunders started in the distance and as we went they got louder. On arrival at the albergue the rain started to pelt down and the skies were breaking out. The noise between the mountains was so loud and powerful that it makes you feel like a little ant. The Germans and the younger kid were there already and had escaped the rain.
Talking with the other Pilgrims that night we realised that every one got lost that day at one time or another. And our first hiccup at the water could be solved by climbing the steep little track beside. Unfortunately even if we were aware we would not take the punt too steep and slippery this little track was adrenaline junkie material.
11/06 the Col of Saint Bernard
Guys, what a treat!! This was the one thing that you want to see and walk once in your life. This tmorning we knew that we were to have a difficult but rewarding day. However we never thought that we were going to experience such a thing.
We were supposed to do a few kms only as the route is difficult, but at the same time you need to arrive at your destination as the night outside a shelter it is not recommendable it gets really cold around here and as you climb up the wind gets worse.
