Before we start to write this part I would like to explain a few things that have escaped because I did not think that they may be important for some of our friends. We as pilgrims have some duties and also some advantages, therefore, we need to be able to be identified. When you start your way we are given Credentials. These Credentials are supposed to be presented to the places where we sleep and/ or churches that we visit. The people then provide you with a stamp that is dated. You need two stamps per day. When you finish the walk these stamps will prove that you did the kilometres that you claim when the pilgrim goes and gets the final certificate at Santiago de Compostela.

The cover and first two pages of the pilgrim credentials

Moving on. Today our destination is Crailsheim a town in the German state of Baden-Württemberg, population 34,000. A short walk 15-16 km a bit difficult but very beautiful. The morning was amazing the sun was shining and the sky was so blue no clouds and a light breeze that made our steps brisk we had the opportunity to see some wild ducks and listen to a frog concert whilst we crossed the green paddocks. This area was rich in different kinds of birds especially big birds like hawks and ravens.

Again many houses with magnificent gardens were on our way and we stopped several times to take photos.

Then we turned into a path by the side of the river which this morning was lovely and clear as crystal. This path had many trees that provided us with shade. Suddenly the path changed to a more narrow form and went uphill. It was paved with old stone that was broken in many places and a bit slippery, went up slowly and at the top, we found a father with two children having breakfast by the water. He looked as high as a kite. Soon after we crossed the river and on the other side were two old men passing time trying to catch fish. We wondered if they would find any fish in there. Soon after another man was coming with his fishing gear and the catch of the day in a plastic bag with some 4 fishes around 10cm long and 4cm wide, maybe he could make a meal for one, of course.

We continued the way and this time entered one proper bicycle track, love them as they are very smooth and there is less chance of falling. Suddenly we saw the name of the town Crailsheim, so we assumed that we were close to our destination. Well, surprise … surprise little did we know that the centre of the city was another 4km. Immediately we noticed that they had extensive green hills around the city and on the highest part there were wooden bench seats where people could come to sit down and admire the beauty that has been given by the creator.

There were several bus stops marked by names such as Proctor and Gamble and others of well know names of machinery and food manufacturers. These were places where workers are picked up to go to work and dropped back after their shifts and they get in their cars and go home. The owner of the guest house explained to us that he had a full house with Romanians who came to work in Germany in these factories. Well, we continued our way and finally turned on a track by a river looking for Banhofen Strasse, I don’t know why I did not wake up before that this time we have landed a house in the skirts of the town. It was exactly that. Luckily the pilgrim accomodation was clean in the back of the property so not much noise.

Well, we stored our bags and took the opportunity to go and locate the Tourist office to get maps that could clarify how we could return to the track (Jakobsweg) the next day that is not always well defined. We understood that this office was at the Bahnhofen (train station) so we walked the distance and of course it was not there so we returned to the heart of the city and bingo there it was in a beautiful modern building made out of glass but unfortunately had already closed, it was Saturday after all.

There went our plan of checking out our route and also the opportunity to learn about this area!

This obviously is a very prosperous area that has a high level of manufacturing industry, agriculture, and the local government is a serious source of employment. Some local groups developed some excellent technology for packaging and sold their knowledge to other countries. In the food industry, people from this area developed the famous Engel beer, which is one of the market leaders, in addition to the specialty cheeses which sell well throughout Europe. This is a town where the green vote has increased to a 47% in 2017 and their production of renewable energy is exceeding targets.

In addition, there are many other sources of employment from the local government. The Rathaus (town hall) must employ a great number of people. They have a big library and a College which is connected to the University of Baden-Guttemberg. They also have a University where people can get degrees, masters and specialties from the distance. Students do periods at University and the rest is done through electronic systems.

It a a source of amusement that the local government is a rat house

This city has been destroyed many times and like the phoenix, the people have resurrected it. The worst attack was during  WW2 the centre of the city was completely destroyed by the bombardment by the allies, the only place that did not burn was the Evangelical cathedral that today is considered a relic. Today the city has been fully reconstructed and all the local government buildings are modern and stylish.

In the centre of the city,  several cherry trees were blooming. What a spectacular picture it is to see the blossom. These trees were kept  because after the allies destroyed and burned their city most of the people become disillusioned and devastated. Many of them left and went to the countryside or other cities. However next spring the cherry trees blossomed and gave force to the inhabitants to rebuild and the city was resurgent from the ashes. Today these trees are a symbol of
resilience for every one.

The centre of Crailsheim

Well, this is a different place where all people are so proud of being part of the success of their town.

The Church in Crailsheim 

We left Crailsheim and started heading to Mainkling we did not know much about the area but started the way with an open mind. It appeared that it was going to be an easy way on the flat and only 22 km to cover. That morning was a bit cloudy but not very cold. We left the Gasthof after breakfast that was very poor but such is a Pilger’s life, sometimes the food is great other times quite poor but it is also part of the experience. Pilgrimage shows people the good and the bad and gives us lessons everyday. Pilgrimage teaches us that it is important to appreciate everything and be grateful to God. Also everyday we learn about ourselves and realise how far we are from being good. When walking long distances in the middle of forest and silence we have time to reflect and see that the distance between us and perfection is unmeasurable.

Leaving Crailsheim 

Booking somewhere to sleep today could be challenging. Accommodation was difficult to find as the area around it is not big and the economy is based mainly on agriculture and not much touristic movement.

The way was good the ups and downs were not too difficult

When leaving Crailsheim we went by the old water tower which is kept and conserved in good shape even when it is not in use.

The old water tower

Of course, the last cherry blossoms from the town were standing and showing their beauty. The cherry trees stay tall and colourful to remind us how important their role was for the revival of the town after the bombs destroyed it.

Cherry blossom in Crailsheim 

We walked through amazing areas where the greens and yellow colours predominated. By now the Rap seed (Canola) is well advanced.

Field of Canola on the way to Mainkling

Unfortunately, when crossing the forest it started to rain but soon after stopped. Every village we passed did not have facilities, but finally, we arrived at Oberspeltach which appeared with more movement. They did have a bus stop! So we asked a lady who was sitting waiting for the bus if in the town there was any place to get some water or coffee or food. She look at us and I am sure that she thought we were from Mars or Jupiter and she shook her head and said “Nicht”. Well that was it we were done. So we walked another 50 metres and decided to cross the road at the set of lights and guess what we found? “an open all hours shop” that was bakery, coffee shop, news agency, banking agency and they collected parcels to be sent away, it was hilarious. Soon after my walking partner said that the lady at the bus stop appeared to be as high as a kite, that explained it.

Richard had to go to the post office and he asked a lady in her sixties (I guess) if she spoke English and she did. She happened to be a widow of a marine Vietnam veteran so they were talking about the subject. She provided him with the post office directions and off he went running up the hill. I think that he got the wrong turn or the indications were confusing and as a result, he returned and the lady offered to accompany him and off they went to pursue the proper end result. Soon they returned – mission accomplished.

Well, by then it was necessary to continue our journey and hit the road as the weather looked very menacing. The clouds were low and a warm wind was blowing. The last thing we wanted was to get wet. Soon before reaching Mainkling we turned into a path where several pear trees were flanking the road and we stoped to take photographs and just as we finished a mad driver passed like a bat out of hell. The noise that came immediately after the car passed us was quite frightening. The car came to a screeching halt. Then the vehicle was backing back towards where we were standing quite surprisingly, especially when suddenly it stopped in the middle of the road and a man in his late thirties early forties got out of the car and walked towards Richard in a menacing manner. Well, this was like a scene out of Mad Max.

Then the man who spoke belligerenly in clear English proceeded to question Richard where we were going, did we need help, were we lost? He recommended us a restaurant and went back to his car and we never saw him again. This was like a nightmare with a happy ending.

Pear tree on the way into Mainkling 

By 16:30 hrs we reached our destination and sat outside the Gasthof until the opening time 17:30. By then we were extremely tired hoping for a good rest. As every evening we plan the next day have something to eat and call it a night.

Well, another part of this stage from Würzburg to Ulm.

Ulm was our first major target

The kms have been stacking up and we expect to be in Ulm by the 26 of April by then we should have around 264 km under the belt and we will be a very happy camp.

We expected that the next two or three days will be tough however the rewards will be immense as we will get to see a great part of Germany from a high vantage point.

Dear family and friends, I hope that you are all well. Until next post.