02. April. 2018
Before commencing this diary I want to thank my son David for having the patience to develop and improve the website. He has done a great job and we will be able to contact our family and friends about our adventures.
Also apologies for the delay in publishing but the communication system has failed us as here in Germany there are several restrictions for tourists for security reasons. Unfortunately terrorists have changed Europe
Finally Richard and myself are commencing our fourth walking trip which will cover a short visit to the Holy Land (Israel) and a long pilgrimage that will cover the German route to Spain. We intend to walk approximately 3,100 Km as we have to do it before we get old .

This morning David drove us to the airport where Davicito, Astrid, Taliesin, Selwyn and Ariela were waiting to say goodbye. It was lovely that they came all that way. The children brought a lovely card, which they had made. We all sat and had some coffee and hot chocolate before we made our way to the boarding gate. Richard and Astrid took a couple of group pictures. Unfortunately my son did not look at the camera which was a pity.

 

At the airport

We were so grateful for the children coming out to see us off, it was a treat
It was sad to say goodbye to David, he has been the biggest supporter, for this adventure encouraging me till the end.
Different to the previous trips I think that we were a bit apprehensive and emotional saying goodbye.

The first part of the trip Sydney – Hong Kong was very comfortable, (Qantas ) the second part Hong Kong to Frankfurt unpleasant (Cathay Pacific).

3 April 2018

We arrived at Frankfurt where we transferred to the Israeli airline. Finally after 38 hrs travelling we arrived in Israel, their airlines are very good and efficient their personnel were very helpful and kind. After landing we were ushered out of the airport by a special service arranged by our good friend Ayala who had invited us to come to Israel on a number of occasions. The same group took us to our hostel in Tel Aviv. The hostel was very pleasant and comfortable, we were given bottom bunks (old people may fall climbing up to the top bunks). We shared with another two people who were polite and considerate.
That evening Ayala came to see us. That was a very emotional moment for all, finally we were together in her land none of us could believe it. She took us for dinner that night to a very trendy Brasserie where the food was superbly prepared. The Jewish people were celebrating Pesach (Passover) and during seven days in Israel and eight days in other countries the Jews have Seder meals prepared with special bitter herbs to remind them of the time when they were slaves in Egypt also they eat unleavened bread and remember the time of the Exodus.
We enjoyed the time with Ayala, we talked about the history of Israel and Judaism during the meal and the time passed quickly. Ayala needed to fly to Germany at 4am next day for work so we had to end the dinner at a reasonable time, so she dropped us back at the hostel and advised that Michael who is a tourist guide would take us to Jerusalem on the Friday and would give us a tour of the city excluding the old part. Ayala indicated that she was to come to Jerusalem and meet us on Saturday and show the old part of the city together with the guide.

4 April
We decided to explore the city of Tel Aviv, what a surprise – what we found was unexpected. We understood that it was build around the same time as Canberra. Started as Jaffa and was extended to what it is today. **In 1906 some 60 Jewish families led by a Zionist non socialist pioneer met in Jaffa to lay out plans to build a new city. They purchase 13 ha of empty sand dunes in the north of the city and divided in 60 lots and start to build in1909 .The current city was built over sand and at the time it was a flower in the dessert. Unfortunately it appears that for many years the reconstruction or modernisation of the city was put on hold so there are areas that are a bit rough looking, however renovation has already commenced. The people in this city seem very happy and welcoming. They appear to do a lot of relaxation activities with their families and little children in the parks and avenues.

 

Tel Aviv Gardens

Also they love their dogs and take them for runs and walks to the nature strips. Tel Aviv has a Cafe culture as those businesses have become meeting places for small business, yuppies and individuals that work using the Cafe wifi and drinking good quality coffee. The Cafe will offer good food and in the evenings they sell alcohol and close at late hours. We can see that is a win win situation for the multiple Cafes.
Also they have a culture of cycling around the city. Many people ride bicycles in the 120 km of bike paths running parallel to the big roads. Renting a bike is easy and you can drop them off at any docking stations.
Of course this city like all other cities observe the Shabbat which is strictly followed by the religious citizens. It commences Friday sunset to Sunday early morning when all activities recommence. Of course the non believers can go ahead enjoying their lives as many restaurants, clubs and entertainment centres stay open.
Typical food in the city is the Shakshuka , baked eggs in tomato sauce onions and spices such as cumin, paprika sometimes peppers, sausages, cheese, spinach. Also the falafels are a very popular snack.

Like every big city you can see that the ones who have are away from the have nots. The majority of areas of the Orthodox Jews are relatively poor compared with the areas of the seculars or other religions. We spent all day walking around the city and tomorrow we will walk to the sea side.

View of Tel Aviv from Jaffa

5 April

As planned we went visiting all the sea side and walked towards Jaffa (Yafo). Here are beautiful places by the sea. The beaches are a popular place for locals and tourists. They are extremely well organised. The sand is covered by colourful umbrellas and comfortable chairs which are provided by the municipality of course at a cost.

Jerusalem beach in Tel Aviv

The beach is 14 km long of golden sand. Nordau beach, is a segregated place where men and women can attend in different days Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday only ladies can use the beach the other days of the week are assigned to gentleman we thought that was very curious.
Beside the beach is a lovely promenade which finished in a lovely garden with wide path for walking frequented by local families and many tourists. Most of the big chic hotels are here.

Tel Aviv seaside

Today we observed that there were many Orthodox Jews and their families dressed in their best regalia. They were walking by the gardens placed at the end of the beach promenade. It was incredible to see them in their long overcoats and black hats whilst the ladies wore head pieces covering their hair and all that in a 39 degree Celsius.

Looking up the beach towards Jaffa

Tel Aviv has also been touched by the refugees that have arrived as “illegals” majority from Phillipines, Africa, Sudan. They have reached Tel Aviv and settled in the areas where the expansion and modernisation of the city will occur and live in poor conditions doing manual work

Ancient Mosque in Tel Aviv near Jaffa

 

April 6

Jerusalem

Michael our guide picked us up at the Abraham Hostel and took us on a quick tour of Tel Aviv-Yafo before driving us to Jerusalem. He had a wide knowledge of both cities. On the way after leaving TelAviv he showed all the new cities which have been built in the later years. The ones on the right hand of the road were white and of very clean lines all of them were built on the top of gentle hills.

New Israeli villages

The left side had houses with flat roofs painted in a cream colour and all the water tanks were black. This style is implemented by the arabs that live in Israel. The flat roofs allow them to build other floors for the next generation or if the family grows.

Another new village on the way to Jerusalem

It is obvious that in these areas they live in harmony . Soon we arrived at our destination that many call the capital of the world; the city that is holy to Jews,Christians and Muslims,
In Jerusalem Michael took us on a tour of the areas surrounding the old (walled) city. We had wonderful views looking down on the old (walled) city from the courtyard of the King David hotel where almost every famous person who ever visited Jerusalem had stayed and left their signature on the floor tiles of a long hallway. These included prime ministers, presidents, kings and film stars.

Next he took us to the Mount of Olives which gave us a view from higher up and a different angle and gave us a glimpse of the cemetery. The third vantage point was the promenade of the British Governor which gave a third angle to view the city and a view of the Western (Wailing) Wall.

The wall the Dome of the Rock and the old city

 

It is a point of curiosity to know that many Jews pay 50,000 dollars to get grave close to the Temple Mount as they believe that they will be better position on the day of resurrection to be among the first to reach it.

Graves in the resurrection cemetery

 

In 1923 Britain had been given the mandate over Palestine by the League of Nations (the precursor of the United Nations (and even less effective). The mandate lasted until the declaration of the State of Israel in 1948.
The Ottoman Empire had ruled Palestine from the 15th century until 1918 when the British army defeated the Turkish army. A British Governor was set up in Jerusalem and established an ordinance that all buildings in Jerusalem must be clad with Jerusalem Stone (Calcites to Dolomites) That is why Jerusalem is so beautiful no matter where you go from poor areas to wealthy. At sunset the whitish crystalline stone of the buildings reflect the rays of the setting sun with a golden glow.

King David Hotel built with Jerusalem Stone

In the early afternoon sun

The tour within the old city took place the next day when Michael (Miki) our guide brought our dear friend Ayala to Jerusalem.
The Old City allows people of all colours and races to walk on the same stones that Jesus, the Apostles and prophets walked, praying in the same temples which were build by Kings and Caliphs in many cases sleep and rest in the hospices where the crusaders, and others did. Visitors, believers, agnostics or atheist are surrounded by history and many are touched by the paradoxical nature of this all. It was so interesting to visit the Old city for a few days, you can feel the magic of the place when bells of the churches tell you that is time for adoration and the call for prayer to Allah from the Muslim towers, the aroma of burning incense: Frankincense and Myrrh that added along with the melting candles and the perfume of fine spices coming out of the places that are preparing meals in the streets. I think that we had never experienced such awakening of the mind and the senses. You don’t need to be religious to be moved and awakened by this experience.
The Old City is surrounded by a wall that glows at the sunset.

The Jaffa Gate

The Ottoman’s legacy was the different gates which are found in here, all of the gates with exception of the golden gate are currently in operation. The Northern wall includes the Damascus gate which was the first built followed by Jaffa, Herod’s, Saint Stephens Zion and the Golden Gate which it is not operational today.
There is another gate called Dung gate, also known as Refuse gate by Hebrews it is located where rubbish was disposed and burned therefore landed this unkind name.
Behind these gates are different Quarters where Christians,Jewish, Muslims,Armenians live in harmony. They have built their temples, honoured their principles and beliefs. You see representation of the architecture of each of the cultures such us the rich Mamluck culture in the Muslim Quarters. Also the colourful Armenian ceramic Art represented by Vases and artefacts.

On Monday we went to Ein Gedi National Park situated between the Eastern Edge of the Judean Desert and the Dead Sea lowest place on the earth 400 m below sea level. This is a beautiful Oasis protected Natural Reserve since 1971

Caves and trees at Ein Gedi National Park

 

Wadi David Waterfall at Ein Gedi

In there you found two valleys Wadi David in the North and Wadi Arengot in the south, which we visited. Unfortunately we had only two hours to walk, take pictures and enjoy the flora and fauna.
Four sweet water falls in the Reserve are the source of water that generates 3 million cubic meters of water fed by rain that falls in the Judean Mountains and seeps into underground water tables and wells up into the Reserve.
The Reserve has interesting flora , dense grove of trees and bushes predominant is jujube, acacia and cordia to mention some. Other tropical trees are the Christ thorn jujube that produce lovely fruit apple like, lots of maiden fern and flowers like orchids growing in the rocks.
Fauna looked spectacular to us. In the high hills there are refuges for wild goats which are so beautiful they are the Ibex also there are little fast moving friendly animals called Rock Hyrax. We did not see the leopards or Hyenas or red fox.

Rock Hyrax in Ein Gedi National Park

To our surprise we saw many butterflies that we did not expect to see there. The birds were interesting specially the white crowned black weather which was always moving impossible to photograph.
We left the park a bit sad because even when we saw interesting thing we never got to see details. This is only the general picture.
There were many caves in the cliff face where one could hide out for some time and that is exactly what David did in this place when escaping from King Saul. We walked where David walked before he was King.

After finishing here we went to Masada situated 60 m above sea level or better 448 m above the surface of the Dead Sea this is a UNESCO world heritage site since 2001.

The Masada aerial view

 

View from the top of the plateau of the plain and the Dead Sea

This is a very important point in the history of the people of Israel. The story said that when the Romans went and took Jerusalem in the year 70 CE they found that a group of 1000 men the Zealots and their families went up to the Masada to hide and make a peaceful life for themselves. The Masada is a Mesa surrounded on all sides by sheer cliffs that seemed to make the place impregnable.
In the year 72 CE the Romans were not happy with this and went to fight to conquer them. To do so and reach the plateau where the Zealots were living they built a ramp of sand. The Jews which were at the top realised that they were going to be defeated and decided that they would never be slaves and nominated a group of men to kill every one. When they finished the job they laid down beside the bodies of their wives and each one took his own life. When the Romans arrived they found only silence and five women and a few children. The Masada it is an amazing place which gives you the most magnificent views of the Dead Sea and the Jordanian mountains.
This history was made into a movie many years ago.

Ercilia near the Dead Sea

Next we visited the Dead Sea where we saw people floating in the high density water.
There were people from many parts including a contingent of Libyan pilgrims to Jerusalem who looked very special in their white attire.

Then we returned to Jerusalem.